Katya Leonovich Fall 2012 Presentation

New fabulous designer alert! – I added another new designer to my list, Katya Leonovich. Stepping just a bit away (but not too far) from her initial American Football-inspired debut collection, Katya Leonovich’s Fall 2012 featured her usual “beautiful garbage” style but several looks had more structure. We saw the usual frenzied color combinations (more appropriately…watercolors as she is a painter), edgy details and embellishments, daring mixed fabrications and textures (hello snakeskin and organza) and lots of architectural details.

The architectural details are no surprise as this collection titled, “An Architectural Aesthetic”, was inspired by the designer’s point of view of the famous architecture of New York City’s buildings. We got to see this inspiration in her paintings which hung over the models during the presentation

My personal favorite looks from this collection are featured below – I love the combination of in-your-face edginess, a touch of femininity and disciplined structure featured in the looks

What do you think of Katya Leonovich’s Fall offerings?

Number:Lab Spring/Summer 2011 Collection

So what comes first, the body or clothes? A casually observing realist would say of course the body. A casually observing fashionisto would say of course the clothes. Well say be true to both. Stay in-shape and fit because not only will your body love you more in the long run but you also can maintain your core size longer and get longevity out of your clothes. Although every once in a while something comes along that makes you question. Like are six pack abs worth forgoing the open bar or like I had to ask, are great streamlined clothes like what debuted at Number:Lab not worth coming back next season to get more great options.

I liked this collection. It was definitely for a city dwelling kind of guy who is active and wants to look good even in fitness inspired clothing. But I kind of had a thought upon viewing the collection. I thought to myself, what’s its relevancy? Then the thought of running around in the summer heat in impeccable but fashionable wovens this summer came to mind. I want to be comfy, stylish and stay cool all in one. Enter Number:Lab.

Number:Lab is like a combination of easy to wear, streamlined clothing in well executed cozy knit and stretch woven fabrics that give the wearer a bit of whimsy, style and comfort. I like the build up of separates because I could very well see an urban gent pairing of of Number: Lab’s blazers with khakis and a tank for an impromptu side walk cafe dinner or Fourth of July third floor terrace barbecue. I think the strongest message though was that easy casual clothing can have a sartorial air to them even clothing as basic as what one would normal deem as workout or exercise wear.

Wearing these clothes to exercise in is an option but certainly not the only option and I reckon to many of its future buyers will not exercise in them at all. The execution of the collection was body conscious and not sloppy by any means. Cool color-blocking with colors like mute reds, navy, cerulean, gray and white kept the collection city friendly and retail friendly as well. Little pops of color on short and pant cuffs and active inspired details like rope twisted belts on slim khakis gave the collection a forward edge.

The proportion and fit of the seamed tanks were flattering and not obscene and the short lengths were also ones that you could seem men, who are becoming more secure with their bodies, gravitate towards.

Now come this spring there are decisions to be made: red Cosmo or red Gatorade with their red blazer or blue hypnotiq or blue powerade with their blue Bermudas? Or perhaps I’ve just invented a couple new cocktails. DW

Mik Cire Fall 2010 Show

I’ll start off this guest commentary by stating that there were times. There were times growing up when the approaching weekend filled me with a breath of fresh air. There were times in my youth when hearing the ice cream truck filled me with a euphoric glee. There were times when that ‘aha’ moment of going from a cheap suit to an expensive suit hit me like a ton of wool gabardine. There were also times that NY Fashion Week would wind up thrilling me to no end, which it occasionally does (key word occasionally). Last season’s Monarchy show, of which Eric Kim was head designer, left me feeling lukewarm and wondering that there were times when I left a fashion show and didn’t mutter to myself “that’s it?”

So with the collar popped on my trench (to mask the almost instinctual screw face to questionable fashion) I entered the Mik Cire by Eric Kim Fall Winter 2010 show during fashion week hoping to be thrilled but secretly terrified for more of the uneventful. As the show began with its part military part nomad inspired, dark assortment of washed greens, browns and blacks reminiscent of moss, calamata olives, cocoa and asphalt, I noticed my neck had started slowly rising from my trench.

What peaked my interest was a well-edited and most notable grown-up collection. There was a skilled and hard-edged handling of skins in suede jackets with double sided zips and wearable bondage-esque bombers with leather sleeves and buckled straps. Button down shirts were given the military meets minimalist air with toned down epaulets and flattering pocket placements. Pea coats, car coats and overcoats in those washed greens, browns and blacks worked very well when paired with zippered wool fingerless gloves, soft knit skullcaps and non-fussy scarves swaddling the neck. Shorter jodhpur style pants (a trend next season) came off more plausibly wearable than costume-like with the aesthetic of the collection especially when paired with long johns and slung on the low waist. Kim’s attention to small details such as clever seaming, fraying and piping placement will attract his modern cosmopolitan soldier to strong familiar silhouettes with refined elements.

Further, while I could do with a more unstructured (and smaller) bag, I see his continuation of the refined and familiar in his use of textured leather and pony on shapes that could easily stow away a weeks worth of clothing for a getaway. I think that was part of the point though; to rework the strong recognizable elements and approach ideas that work for men in a forward, wearer- friendly way (the pea coat, the short overcoat, the gloves, the long johns, the suspenders, the ruff sack, etc.)

Good first start for Mr. Kim under his namesake. The buyers will like it, those with more refined and darker tastes than Monarchy will like it and he’s bound to attain a crop of new soldiers eager to grow with his vision. And for those of you who were wondering, the show ended with Mr. Kim and his toddler son taking a wave, my collar down and my expression all smiles…..yes all smiles. DW.